Source of the Columbia River and Trapper Morigeau
Sept. 9, 1845
No. VIII.
A. M. D. G.
Head of the Columbia,
September 9th, 1845.
All hail! Majestic Rock-the home,
Where many a wand'rer yet shall come,
Where God himself from his own heart,
Shall health, and peace, and joy impart.
MONSEIGNEUR,-The 4th September, towards noon, I found myself at the source of the Columbia. I contemplated with admiration those rugged and gigantic mountains where the Great River escapes-majestic, but impetuous even at its source; and in its vagrant course it is undoubtedly the most dangerous river on the western side of the American hemisphere. Two small lakes from four to six miles in length, formed by a number of springs and streams, are the reservoirs of its first waters.
I pitched my tent on the banks of the first fork that brings in its feeble tribute, and which we behold rushing with impetuosity over the inaccessible rocks that present themselves on the right. What sublime rocks! How varied in shape and figure! The fantastic in every form, the attractive, the ludicrous, and the sublime, present themselves simultaneously to the view; and by borrowing ever. so little the aid of the imagination, we behold rising before our astonished eyes, castles of by-gone chivalry, with their many-embattled towers-fortresses, surrounded by their walls and bulwarks - palaces with their domes - and, in fine, cathedrals with their lofty spires.
On arriving at the two lakes, I saw them covered with swarms of aquatic birds-coots, ducks, water-fowl, cormorants, bustards, cranes, and swans; whilst beneath the tranquil water lay shoals of salmon in a state of exhaustion. At the entrance of the second lake, in a rather shallow and narrow place, I saw them pass in great numbers, cut and mutilated, after their long watery pilgrimage among the rapids, cataracts, valleys, and falls; they continue this uninterrupted procession during weeks and months.
Perhaps I shall scarcely be believed when I affirm that the salmon fish are quarrelsome. I witnessed with .surprise the sharp and vengeful bites they mutually inflicted. These two lakes form an immense tomb, for they there die in such numbers as frequently to infect the whole surrounding atmosphere.
In the absence of man, the grey and black bear, the wolf, the eagle, and vulture assemble in crowds, at this season of the year. They fish their prey on the banks of the river, and at the entrance of the lakes ; - claws, teeth and bills serving them instead of hooks and darts. From thence, when the snow begins to fall, the bears, plump and fat; resume the road back to their dens in the thick of the forests, and hollows of rocks, there to pass the four sad wintry months in complete indolence, with no other pastime or occupation, than that of sucking their four paws.
If we may credit the Indians, each paw occupies the bear for one moon, (a month,) and the task ,accomplished, he turns on the other side, and begins to suck the second, and so on with the rest.
I will here mention, en passant, all the hunters and Indians remark that it is a very uncommon incident for a female bear to be killed when with young, and, notwithstanding, they are killed in all seasons of the year. Where they go - what becomes of them during the period they carry their young - is a problem yet to be solved by our mountain hunters.
When emigration, accompanied by industry, the arts and sciences, shall have penetrated into the numberless valleys of the Rocky Mountains, the source of the Columbia will prove a very important point. The climate is delightful; the extremes of heat and cold are seldom known. The snow disappears as fast as it falls; the laborious hand that would till these valleys, would be repaid a hundred fold. Innumerable herds could graze throughout the year in these meadows, where the sources and streams nurture a perpetual freshness and abundance. The hillocks and declivities of the mountains are general]y studded with inexhaustible forests, in' which the larch tree, pine of different species, cedar and cypress abound.
In the plain between the two lakes, are beautiful springs, whose waters have re-united and formed a massive rock of soft sandy stone, which has the appearance of an immense congealed or petrified cascade. Their "raters are soft and pellucid; and of the same temperature as the milk just drawn from the cow. The description given by Chandler of the famous fountain of Pambouk Kalesi, on the ancient Hieropolis of Asia Minor, in the valley of Meander, and of which Malte Brun makes mention, might be literally applied to the warm springs at the source of the Columbia. The prospect unfolded to our view was so wonderful, that an attempt to give even a faint idea of it, would savor of romance, without going beyond the limits of fact.
We contemplated with an admiring gaze, this vast slope, which, from a distance, had the appearance of chalk. and. 'when nearer, extends like an immense concreted cascade, its undulating surface resembling. a body of water suddenly checked or indurated in its rapid course.
The first lake of the Columbia is two miles and a half distant from the River des Arcs-a-plats, and receives a portion of its waters during the great spring freshet. They are separated by a bottom land. The advantages Nature seems to have bestowed on the source of the Columbia, will render its geographical position very important at some future day. The magic hand of civilized man would transform it into a terrestial paradise.
The Canadian! Into what part of the desert has he not penetrated? The monarch who rules
at the source of the Columbia is an honest emigrant from St. Martin, in the district of Montreal, who has resided for twenty-six years in this desert. The skins of the rein and moose deer are the materials of which his portable palace is composed; and to use his own expressions, he EMBARKS on horseback ,with his wife and seven children, and LANDS. wherever he pleases. Here, no one disputes his right, and Polk and Peel, who are now contending for the possession of his dominions, are as unknown to our carbineer, as the two greatest powers of the moon. His sceptre is a beaver trap-his law a carbine-the one on his back, the other on his arm, he reviews his numerous furry subjects the beaver, otter, muskrat, marten,. fox, bear, wolf, sheep, and white goat of the mountains, the black-tailed roe-buck, as well as its red-tailed relative, the stag, the rein and moose deer; some of ,which respect his sceptre - others submit to his law. He exacts and receives from them the tribute of flesh and skins. Encircled. by so much grandeur, undisturbed proprietor of all the sky-ward palaces, the strong holds, the very last refuge which Nature ,has reared to preserve alive liberty in the earth - solitary lord of these majestic mountains, that elevate their icy summits even to the clouds, - Morigeau (our Canadian) does not forget his duty as a Christian. Each day, morning and evening, he may be see devoutly reciting his prayers, midst his little family.
Many years had Morigeau ardently desired to see a priest; and when he learned that I was about to visit the source of the Columbia, he repaired thither in all haste to procure for his wife and children the signal grace of baptism. The feast of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin, this favor was conferred on them, and also on the children of three Indian families, who accompany him in his migrations. This was a solemn day for the desert! . The august sacrifice of Mass was offered; Morigeau devoutly approached the Holy Table ; - at the foot of the humble altar he received the nuptial benediction; and the mother, surrounded by her children and six little Indians, was regenerated in the holy waters of baptism. In memory of so many benefits, a large cross was erected in the plain, which, from that time, is called the Flain of the Nativity.
I cannot leave my good Canadian without making an honorable mention of .his royal CUISINE A LA SAUVAGE. The first dish he presented me contained two paws of a bear. In Africa this ragout might have given some alarm; in effect, it bears a striking resemblance to the feet of a certain race. A roast porcupine next made its appearance, accompanied by a moose's muzzle; the latter I found delicious. Finally, the great kettle containing a sort of hotch-potch, or salmagundi, was placed in the midst of the guests, and each one helped himself according to his taste.
Some remains of beef, buffalo, venison, beavers' tails, hare, partridges, &c., made an agreeable, substantial, famous soup.
I am, monseigneur, your most humble and obedient servant in Jesus Christ,
P. J. DE SMET, S. J.